ADVENTURE - TRANSGLOBE LEG 7

 

As the trip progresses, the crew are increasingly generating their own inter watch competitiveness. We have Cathy’s Crew, Red Watch, a typical nuclear family, Mum (Cathy), Dad (James), and two children (Helen and kid brother Lee).  The odd domestic argument quickly overcome, solid and effective delivery of helming, Mother Watch duties on the button, sound and safe. Then we have Al’s All Stars, Blue Watch. Al, the old(est) person in the boat (quickest man-overboard recovery drill of 90 seconds, Blog meister), Russ (in charge of catering services and planning), Tab (a taciturn jack of all trades), and Gemma (the boat’s masseuse, no kidding, who has kept the skipper and others relaxed since the race pressure has been building}. And finally we have the only all male watch, White, Arty’s Cowboys. Arty, “the wind’s always changing direction Gov” and, without a hint of irony, knowing they are the best looking watch. Steph, Dutch, a superglue quick-dry humour, up for everything, loads of energy, a safe and reliable pair of hands. Clem, possibly with one leg shorter than the other because he has a tendency to go off course a lot, always in the same direction. And Kris, fully recovered from his hospitalisation and abandon ship drills and, possibly because he is training to be a Navy diver, keen to try and fall overboard on every occasion, including using sail powered ejection. Their competitiveness is boundless and their spirit driven to win. They just have to be the best at everything. Fastest speed achieved (it doesn’t matter to them whether it was in the right direction), fastest sail change, fastest reef, best meals served when on mother watch, greatest distance run in a single watch (but rarely along the intended line) and fastest time to clean the heads (shower / toilet) compartments (well, boys will be boys, and time tidying up is time which could be better spent playing!!

 

Day 5 – Replete on their breakfast of toasted bacon sandwiches, Blue Watch take over the Forenoon watch with two reefs in the main and the Number 3 Yankee up, having first negotiated the companionway blockage of whale watchers, who proved you cannot get four people through that hatch at the same time. Conditions are magnificent – clear blue skies, 30 knot winds gusting forty, from the South West, driving us Eastward in an increasing sea state. With High Pressure forecast, this could be as good as the Southern Ocean gets, in terms of the big seas, surfing down the front of waves, everyone getting into the groove as far as getting a feel for the steering, and feeling the muscular after effects from that steering effort. This was how those of us new to this kind of sailing had hoped and imagined it to be. Cameras were seen in abundance as helmsmen and women posed behind the wheel, in front of the foaming crests and rolling walls of water. Seasickness was largely overcome. Everyone was becoming familiar with the tiring effects of the established routines.

 

The midday skippers’ radio schedule confirmed the fleet disposition, with ADV having by some margin the greater distance to run to the finish but, having kept to a more Southerly route, tactically well positioned to minimise the time under the effects of the high pressure (no wind), and then to pick up stronger winds developing from the West for a run up to the west of NZ to the finishing line, a line projected north from Cape Reinga, the North point of North Island. CHALLENGER reported her position as some 70 odd miles further North and a little East, smack in the High Pressure System. The Race scoring system for legs takes into account finishing position, number of hours under engine, and penalties for equipment damage, to discourage skippers from driving their boats too fast at government expense. Quiet confidence from Nikki, doubling as tactician, she was barely able to contain her excitement, claiming that Boat Speed is God, never tiring from encouraging go, go go, faster sail changes and reefs with the stop watch rolling.  The day ended with Magnificent Moon rises, of the sort you can experience only at sea with an unbroken horizon; Star Scapes, with the Milky Way cascading across the night sky, providing ample opportunities for most of us to display a general ignorance of astronomy, not that one could tell from the confident manner in which a little knowledge was shared; and sunrises, with just the on watch team there to witness the event, not another boat in sight, just sea birds, the wind and the waves, quality kit from the official sponsor (GILL) keeping everyone warm, sailing straight (in the groove), and as fast as possible.

 

Day 6 - As the sun rose the High Pressure came full on, the wind reduced to 15 knots and, to maintain Eastward momentum, it became necessary to start the engine. Never really what a yacht wants, what this meant was an opportunity to enjoy the sunshine, relax a bit, do some tea towel laundry via the pot on the hob. And most importantly for some, try for a sun tan. Boat speed maintained, the skippers’ midday call confirmed that excellent progress had been made. We’d caught DISCO, by distance, and CHALLENGER seemed to have spent much of the previous 24 hours under engine due to being in the High pressure. Nikki hadn’t ceased her go go go calling, and manoeuvres were becoming slicker with watches competing against each other for faster sail changes and reefing. The wind steadily picked up allowing the spinnaker to be set for several hours of sailing, pretty much on a reach (wind coming from the side), Cathy, as the first person on the helm with spinnaker aloft, and wind shifty, duly noted there was plenty of sea room should she have to bear away to reduce the risk of broaching. The crew fell about laughing, of course we had sea room!! or at least we would hope so,  we had the whole of the southern ocean, all 2000 miles behind us with not a boat seen since departure! Cathy was as ever in the groove thinking of only the spinnaker and exercising good seamanship!

 

Such was progress, and the fact that CHA had reported a birthday party on board, and knowing that there were no birthdays aboard this time on ADV, Nikki creatively called for a surprise birthday party for Neil the skipper for the next day, not that it was his birthday! The birthday party was an excuse for considerable merriment. The saloon was decorated, cards were made, and lunch was taken in fancy dress attire, the expression ‘in the groove’ took on a whole new meaning (Russ, up to you to explain) Two of the Cowboys wanted to be cowgirls. Neil was in heaven.  Nikki was definitely on a roll! On that subject, she had recently issued a new set of instructions for Mother Watch, which read something like:  Remember, boat speed is god, a 1% drop in hydration = a decrease in performance, fill new on watches water bottles on departing your watch and offer the night watches caffeine brew to get them in the groove quicker.(Clearly a lady who keeps her faith strong). Label Heads tea towels with heads in permanent marker, for use only around the heads (this took some deciphering). The black bags in the forepeak is for heads only rubbish (tied with greybag) the other is for kitchen waste and some more sensible advice on Reduce, reuse recycle, first mate duties and watch good leaders = a spik and span boat!

 

Day 7 – dominated by 10-12 knot speeds along 030 Magnetic, 052 Course over the Ground (COG). The midday skippers’ call confirmed what we had hoped. Although we had fallen slightly behind DISCO, miles had been gained on CHA. The race was on for line honours, but we had motor miles in hand should the wind fail us. By this stage, one day is merging very much into another as the watches pass. The generator is run a couple of hours morning and evening for battery charging, water making, water heating, and providing 240v for charging the plethora of modern accoutrements that everyone carries around with them, and for which the boat is well equipped. Al is thoroughly taken by the range of navigation and instrument systems aboard and can often be found with his head in the instruction manual; and a wooden spoon over the knuckles from Nikki each time he tries to push a few buttons.

 

Day 8 – COG 052 – wind shifted gradually round to the North West and the staysail was brought into action. A confused sea meant for some uncomfortable conditions below, and with every watch entailing a sail change, reef change, plan change. Mother Watch hard at it. As well as the daily duties of cleaning, cooking, providing regular refreshments, bagging sails, helping out the on watch Watch if required, hoovering those parts of the bilges which the bilge pumps cannot reach, grabbing a few hours sleep, compacting rubbish using kitchen scissors and empty bottles.

 

Day 9 – COG 052 – sunny in the morning and great boat speeds, then gradually reducing to grey and overcast, rain squalls, 30+ knots of wind leading to bigger and steeper sea, cascading spray, thumping bows. For the Watch on deck, this just adds to the adventure part of the trip: quick check that everyone was still there after the occasional monster wave washed over the deck, driving rain being but a drop in the ocean compared with the constant spray, ear-splitting cracks as the bow takes certain breaking waves square on, heeling to 45 degrees, looks of real grit and satisfaction. Below decks is more the endurance part. It always feels and sounds much worse than it really is, except that everything does become more difficult to achieve. Whether it’s preparing meals and refreshments, managing just to staying in your bunk let alone sleeping, sail packing or living generally, slips, spillages, bruises and torrents of nautical language become very much the order of the day.  With such conditions dominating from midday onwards, Blue watch clocked up two records (it can’t be said that they’re not competitive, simply more reserved in their approach than the wild, playboy, playful White bunch): the maximum distance sailed during a four hour period of 49.1 nautical miles, and the slowest ever sail change; lots of reasons – no excuses!

 

The midday exchange showed all the boats closely bunched for distance to go to the finish, some 30 hours hence. ADV still with the greatest distance to go, and reported weather conditions from the other boats neither confirming nor denying where any advantage might lie. Overnight the wind varied as a front moved through and a direct course became impossible for a while. Lighter winds, more sail, night time focsle dramas, tiredness beginning to show but the desire to pull out all the stops for the final push clearly evident. It’s a good thing that injuries don’t incur penalties in the race scoring system.

 

Day 10 – barring the unexpected, the race will finish today!

 

Next update, scheduled to be posted on Thursday 14 Jan.

 

Personal messages from the Leg 7 ADVENTURE crew:

 

Neil, Skipper – Great, great, great; fantastic sailing with amazing boat speed and stiff competition and this time not having to start as “tail end Charlie”. 42 hours to the finish and we’re buzzing trying to maintain maximum boat speed. Loving it!

 

Nikki, First Mate –  Monday 11th. Up for the midnight till 4am on the grave yard shift watching over the White watch otherwise known as the cowboys! A shift full of action, with wind and spray taking centre stage. At 1220am the 2 Yankee was dropped as the apparent wind speed built and then rehoisted 30 mins later upon wind dropping (almost in a record time!) The sea state was building to rough, with swell on the beam and it was a free salt water all over body shower on the foredeck if you wanted one.. the boys however, Clem, Kris, and Stefan  however had no choice, particularly as the flood lights weren’t working, so bar the red lenses, it was completed in the dark. The boys had a challenge to keep her on course Stefan, aka Michael Schumacher, did particularly  well even with a second reef in.  I slept between 5am and 715am. At 730am, the usual skipper /mate hand over with Neil aka Penny Skipman for my next shift 8am-12pm. At 8am I took a quick spin on the helm with Blue Watch and then we shook a reef out to No.1 as the wind had dropped With a new downloaded weather Grib File to project what the next few days would bring for us and of course the competition Disco and Challenger, it was off the helm and back to the laptop and charts, leaving the driving to cherpy Russ. Go Adventure go. Wacked the generator on to charge batteries and so mother watch could use the 240v sockets to prepare lunch  fantastic cheese on toast,  it’s a classy affair  you know on this boat!! I fixed the freezer coolant and we then performed usual comms on HF to see how comrades on Disco and Challenger were finding the Southern Ocean, and more importantly what their position was. With us positioned as the most southerly yacht,  we made the decision to climb overnight, on a beam reach, capitalising on the strong NW winds that we had been dealt, a good plan, particularly as Disco were in an area where lighter airs were expected and with the wind was due to veer for us in the next few days, this should reduce our chances of a beat to the finish.  Unfortunately, Disco to the North, had more wind than predicted and so they crept into the lead over night, progressing well in a more  NE direction, capitalising on not having to climb as much to make the finish line. Right now we have 30 knots of breeze and a rough sea, the laptop is doing well to stick to the Nav table. It’s becoming hot and muggy on board as we head out of the Southern Ocean and North into the Tasman Sea. However, fear not for melanomas, no sunshine can be seen. The wash boards and hatches are playing a crucial part in keeping the boat dry as the breaking waves swamp the cockpit and the boys are all tooled up with foulies and hoods. There is hardly one inch of skin exposed to the wet. Lots of Albatrosses this morning. A trawler came up on the AIS 90 miles away last night, this is the only boat we have seen since we left Tasmania  7 days ago That’s one big wide open space……that reminds me of that song by the Dixie chicks.. Wide open spaces.

 

RED WATCH

 

Helen –  Hello! It’s been a very wet few days, prior to midnight last night we had some hard work with 3 sail changes in 2 hours but we were then rewarded with a fab sail for the rest of the watch. The full milky way was out and incredible night sky with lots of shooting stars. Just before we went off watch we sailed through a massive field of bright green glowing bioluminescence, possibly jellyfish (?) as they were about 50cm each and there were hundreds of them – really beautiful. Enjoying myself but looking forward to seeing Mike – just 5 weeks to go in Afghan, hang on in there! Hope you had a good holiday Mum and Dad and look forward to seeing you soon. Lots of love, Helen x                                                        

 

James – Excited at seeing New Zealand. Emma do you want to emigrate?

 

 

Cathy – Another good day of sailing, after being cooped up down below yesterday whilst mother and missing the wetness! New Zealand is in sight and just a few miles to the finish…….. be in contact soon. 

 

WHITE WATCH

 

Arty – Nothing to report! And he is busy cooking another fabulous meal! Mind you, all the things being said about the White Watch ….. he can cook a cracking meal!! Thanks Buddy!

 

Clem –. Is on his way to the crows nest, trying to spot Challenger who must  be close by now! So he is unavailable as well to write something personal. Hopefully he will be back in time to add something personal.

 

Stephan – Oh my God, sorry Renate but I think I just found another expensive hobby!! I need to win the lottery and buy myself one of these bad boys and go racing. What an amazing  feeling to be at the helm of a yacht this size in Severe Gale force winds with waves and swell making you go “all over the place”. With visibility dropping to 100 metres and torrential downpours, it looked like a movie scene last night, bit of a shocker when in those conditions the wind swings around 100 degrees and causes the main sail to jybe. Changing sails in the dark with spray coming over the bow and struggling to get the life line attached surely makes the adrenaline flow! Drenched to the bone but loving every minute of it. Last nights storm left a baby giant squid on the deck, and also a flying fish was detected on the starboard side of the boat this morning. This morning’s kip was interrupted by Helen calling for “All hands on deck”. The pole on the Yankee was broken and had to be replaced. Hard work again, but enjoying every minute of it.

Just spotted land!! Another 20 odd miles to go and then we will be at the finish in NZ waters. Relaxing one day in the Bay of Islands and then we will head for Auckland to check out the local scenery and get the essential souvenirs!! A man can never have too many t-shirts!! Looking forward to going home and having several showers per day instead of once in three days, and have a decent bed without snoring people around me… no offence Tab!!

I like to thank the Skipper, first  mate and crew of HMSTV Adventure for this great adventure and Gemma for showing me the signal for this exped. White watch buddies, many thanks and remember the motto!!

 Love and kisses to everybody, en ik kan niet wachten om weer lekker tegen je aan te liggen Renate!! XXX

                                                                                                                                                                

Kris – Hi all, journey nearly over now, had a fantastic time with a great bunch of people, was part of , obviously the best watch. Just want to say thanks to all the organisers and the people who took part in my leg of Transglobe and would like to say it is well recommended to any one reading.

 

BLUE WATCH

 

Al –Dad, if anyone is closely following this blog I suspect it will be you. Hopefully it’s providing a little taste of things. Just like difficult sea passages, it’s the arrival at the destination that makes the hardship worthwhile. In this case, each day has brought some new and tremendous sailing experience, each experience being a destination in its own right. Sophie – good luck for your interview at PGS next Saturday. How do you calculate the area of a triangle? Louis – how’s the guitar practice going? Love to all xxx. Thanks to Cdre Steve for letting me come on this trip, I hope 2010 for the MWS has started well. A belated congratulations, also, for your very well deserved QBH. And to Jon Glass for getting the COLLINGWOOD leg organised, we’ll all have plenty of stories to tell.

 

Russ – Hi Jo (and Alan, Jean and Mum if you’re reading this).  I’ve decided to abandon the previously mentioned Bulimic (seasickness) method of weight control in favour of sleep deprivation and hard work on the upper deck having settled into a watch keeping routine.  Have now reached the North tip of North Island and will be cruising down the coast toward Bay of Islands for a couple of days so might get a chance to call. Arriving Auckland on Wed/Thu so will def speak soon.  Hope the time has been passing quickly for you and that Beamish is not becoming too much of a mummy’s boy! Love you loads. R xxx

 

Tab –  Hi all, have had a fantastic time. Very hard work, big seas, but every thing that I expected. New Zealand is now with in sight. Jill not long till I’m home missing you loads, have you got the weekend off when I get home? Will text when we reach harbour in about three days. See you all soon.

 

Gemma –  Wow, can’t believe we can see land. Feels like we only left yesterday and we are here already. Doesn’t time fly when you are having, that and when you are so tired you haven’t got a clue what day it is. A few days in the bay of islands followed by some time in Auckland should be fun and mean I may even get back into a regular sleeping pattern before I get home. This has been by far one of the best things I have done. We have had a few ups and downs in the weather which has given some pretty big waves. Today on the other hand has been much calmer and hot, have managed to get a little sun today, only on my face and arms but I’m not complaining as its January and it’s hot. Love to you all and should have reception again soon so will get in touch. Big kisses to you all. Gem xxxx